Tuesday 23 December 2008

Odds n sods


A few unrelated pictures and a few words about Goa for those that haven’t followed our other blogs. Starting with a hammocks eye view at the Majorda Beach resort and me in that hammock a few seconds later.

Another one at the Majorda; the only hotel in Goa with an indoor pool.

Whilst relaxing at Gods Gift I spotted some ants going to work on a butterfly. At first, when it was still struggling, there were about 1000 ants but once dead it only took about 100 or so to carry it off to their nest. It was amazing to watch how such little creatures organized themselves to carry off such a relatively large insect. They dragged it about 20ft to get it back to their hole. At first, I couldn’t be bothered to go back to our room for the camera but I am pleased that I changed my mind in time to catch these shots just before it disappeared.

Here is one of Claire relaxing by the pool at Gods Gift trying to catch the last few rays in late afternoon.

Our lovely little puppies at Gods Gift. They have chained up the parents (so they can’t do any more damage) leaving the three puppies free to run around. They can’t resist Claire, nor she them and I know you shouldn’t have favorites.

Goa has lovely weather during our winter, only getting humid in May just before the monsoon comes and it rains until about October when the sun comes out again. Flight prices vary more than most destinations but we paid £350 each for 2 weeks over Christmas; if we could have come 1 week earlier we could have got it for £200. Before I found these my cheapest was about £650 so do persevere. It takes about eight and a half hours for a direct flight and considerably more for non direct; do try and get direct, unless you want to try and stop off at Dubai on the way.

Hotels and guest houses are everywhere and the cost also varies. There are the top hotels, like Taj Exotica, Majorda Beach Resort and Leela etc. You may be able to get a deal but food and drinks are usually high. We paid £18 for a gin and tonic and a glass of wine at the Taj. Some hotels give you all inclusive but it really is so cheap out here we don’t think its worth it. For a good lunch with beer at one of the many “beach shacks” along the coast, expect to pay about £5 for two. And many will include a sun bed, umbrella and table for the day keeping you supplied with drinks when you wish. In the evening, prices are similar but, like everywhere they vary in price and quality. Although the price of wine is high at the Majorda their food is reasonable; we paid about £5 for chateaubriand for 2 people.

Goa is split into 3 main parts, North, South and central. We like South Goa better than the others but probably more people prefer the North as more go there. The North is more commercial and “Roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and bisto gravy” is readily available. The South have always had fewer tourists, although Colva and Cavolosim are catching up fast. The south has one long beach with all the resorts along it; on a clear day, if you stand near the middle, say Colva you can see the end in both directions. We have walked the entire south Goa beach and have thoroughly enjoyed it. The north has cove type beaches making it almost essential to have a driver to get you out of where you are staying mostly. There are some stretches worth walking along in the Candolim area. Central Goa has the capital Panjim amongst other things; there are more traditional places of interest to see in that area but not where I would chose to stay, its better to visit if you wish.

Like everywhere, Goa is constantly changing, but it seems to me that Goa is changing faster than most. Last time we came you were constantly plagued by sellers along the beach, now they are banned. The smoking in public places rule has just started to be enforced this week. The roads are busy and people drive so much differently to back home and when you first get here it seems very dangerous. We have always hired a motor bike when we are here and find it much less dangerous than it looks as traffic goes so slowly generally. We usually pay about £2 a day for rental but you can get it for less. We used to barter furiously when here at first but now only a little. The locals always start with what they think is a high price for their first time but actually enjoy the game where you try and get them down while they try and hold the price high. The people here earn relatively so much less than us so when we buy stuff now we don’t reduce their price by much but still barter otherwise you will lose their respect and they don’t get the satisfaction.

The main danger on the roads probably comes from animals, especially at night. Goats, dogs, pigs and cows constantly walk the roads along with lots of people and bikes. As in India they drive on the left just like at home the cows usually walk on the right so as to see the oncoming cars and trucks. There is no law for this and I don’t think they have learned it, its just that the ones that naturally like to walk on the other side have long since died when motorized transport started. The “holy cow” can walk anywhere they chose, except in a posh hotel, they even go down to the beach. Some of the pigs can grow to quite a size and can be quite threatening sometimes. There are also water buffalo roaming the beaches and roads; these are huge beasts and can be quite dangerous. You regularly read of people being killed by them. The locals rear them here for strength, getting them to drag huge lumps of wood chained to their neck along the beaches to strengthen them up in training for a buffalo fight. These are quite hard to find as they are illegal, we only stumbled across one once and they don’t fight to death or even hurt each other. They interlock horns and push each other until one has had enough and runs like crazy in any direction it can; don’t get in its way! Huge amounts of energy are expended in these fights and the bulls quickly overheat so the owners or trainers are constantly pouring buckets of water over their back, which seems to instantly turn to steam. They even get behind their bull and give it a helping push. It is hard to watch as there are so many people in a circle around the bulls, like a children’s playground fight. They all bet their weeks wages on their favorite so its important that theirs wins.

Do try and get here as it’s a place you will not forget and don’t sit in your expensive hotel paying extortionate prices, get out and experience Goa buying your food, drinks and bits from the locals who really need the business. They are lovely people here; you will rarely find one that you don’t like. They can be a little irritating sometimes when trying to sell you something so just smile and say, “Maybe tomorrow”!

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