Last day

Claire had booked one last beauty treatment at Francisca’s on our last day so I shot off on the bike to Colva to put a couple of blogs on. Upon my return, as usual, her treatment had overrun so I got some petrol and had a drive around the corner to the beach at Betlabatim to see what developments there had been since our last trip.

Coconut Grove was there before and I think we put some of their tariffs on our previous blog. The other two I don’t remember, maybe they were being built, but they are Alagoa and Marshal Retreat. I spotted this water buffalo basking in the sun with a harem of birds looking after it. Or was it vultures?

Claire was good as she wanted to sunbathe all day on her last day so she could maximize her suntan but I had wanted a bike exploration day since we got there and she was good and let me have it. We had a bad start and ended up driving on the motorway to Vasco De Gamma, it’s a rotten trip so we turned around and came back stopping over at Cococabana for a quick drink. All Indian tourists here but there were plenty of them.

We then had to drive through the shanty town again to get to South Goa. We always are taken this way when you first get a taxi from the airport but have never had a camera at the ready so when taking off my helmet I gave Claire the camera to capture it. It is always a bit of a culture shock when you first get here as its noisy, very bust and with rubbish everywhere in this heat……! Good job you cant smell photos but the cows don’t seem to mind.

We stopped of at the Horizon Beach Resort for lunch but again were disappointed this year. Their usual great service had completely disappeared and the only way we could get any was to go inside to order or pay. The food was ok but not as good as we remember it. Like everywhere else they had been hit hard by the lack of tourists. The only tourists they have seemed to be from Mumbai or other Indian cities.

We dropped or stuff off and drove to Colva to drop our bike off and walk back to Majorda for the last time. The beaches were full of Indians, the only white people were from Russia.

This tree is outside the Majorda Beach Resort and I have been meaning to get a shot of it. These trees are all over, when the tree leans over because of prevailing winds, it drops down creepers that plant themselves so as to sure up and support the tree just like Dali crutches.

For our last night we decided on Fusion, especially as they had the group that they had on our last night last time. Can’t remember what hey are called but we call them the tree Amigo’s. They come round to each table in turn and play one that they like them take a request from the table. Last time we had them playing all our favorite Beatles songs so I tried to catch them out this time. I was disappointed as they didn’t know any Jimmy Hendrix so we had to settle for American Pie. Even our favorite Brazilian Chef joined in with a song on his mouth organ; no wonder the food was slow.

I nice way to finish off a couple of weeks in the sun; all we had left now been a very long horrible day getting home. While waiting for the staff to turn up in the morning Claire kept an anxious eye out for our taxi to take us to the airport. We ended up missing breakfast and had also forgotten just how awful Goa International airport is. You have the usual cue to get into the airport as security check passports and tickets before you can even join the check in queues. Once through the slow check in queue you have to join even longer queue’s to get through passport control. This one took 2 hours to negotiate before queuing again for the security checks and several more passport checks. They tried hard to cheer people up by have a live band in the main hall where all the queues are but unfortunately; no photos. Again we had the “family from Hell” in the queue in front of us and of course they were all sat on the seat behind us on the plane. There was only one thing for it; we had to pay for an upgrade but I am sure Claire will have more to say about this when she takes over form me once we are back home.

More odds n sods

Just a quick in-betweenie as a little extra, mainly to put some pictures in that I had forgot to put in at the right time.

This is a picture of “Dave’s extra special steak” at Lucky star. Excellent for 210 rupees, far less than £3.

How could I have missed the three father Christmases? Should have videoed them singing and dancing.

You very often see people carrying all sorts of thing on bikes but its difficult to take pictures of them when you are riding the bike but we did manage to get this pair with a ladder. All he had to do was catch a branch and the driver would have been left on his own. We even watched them overtaking a truck. We didn’t manage to get the two guys with a very long double barrel shotgun and a wild pig draped across their motor bike not the two motor bikes, one behind the other, carrying a very long metal pole.

I leave you with a short video of Claire tucking into her Mish Mar Christmas lunch.

Fusion night out

We had already booked Christmas night at the Fusion but it didn’t start until 8pm so we were well oiled before we got there. Our day seems to start around 5am and finish at 9pm mostly. Maybe we will watch the 9pm film but Claire generally cant remember more than the first 10 minutes.

Although the starters were fantastic we were a little disappointed overall; the main courses were nothing compared to the starters and as far as I could see there was only one sweet. We were promised music yet there was none, nor even an explanation. For what they charged it was quite poor I’m sad to say. Beers and soft drinks were free but the wine is quite expensive there.

We spotted a couple from our hotel and joined them for drinks when we had had enough food. What a great couple, cant remember their names but just goes to show you we had a good night once with them. We seemed to be kicked out around 11.30 and headed home. When passing our new favorite restaurant we noticed there were no guest and asked if we could have a drink. Before we knew it, our neighbors from the hotel had also joined us as well. Sorry cant remember anyone’s names from Christmas night.

As everyone seemed to want vodka I ordered a bottle then each ordered a mixer for each. My logic was that it would save loads of money and the first couple drank vodka anyway so could take it home with them. This wasn’t necessary as we polished the whole bottle off anyway. No wonder I can’t remember anyone’s names!

A quiet day by the pool was called for as Claire had a hangover and really struggled to eat anything that lunch time. A final picture from our front balcony; you can see Claire in the top left hand corner where we bags with our towels way before the Germans get up.

Betty’s Boat Trip

You will be pleased to know that there aren’t many words to this entry, let the pictures do the talking. We love Betty’s boat trip and tried very hard to do a trip that we hadn’t done before without success. They cancelled on us twice so it was our old trip or nothing. Even though we have done this trip about 6 or 7 times now, we never tire of it. If you are ever here make it a top priority as iy is a real highlight and is worth every rupee.






















It looks like Betty’s have built another bar type restaurant close to the river; don’t know if it is being used yet. We saw dolphins as soon as we left the river mouth but they are hard to catch on film. I always take this shot of the corner.












You see plenty of birds on the way up the river after the dolphin hunt and if the fisherman on this boat had kept one more fish, I think they would have sank. Lucky for the others I caught a nice big fish for lunch.


















Goa is not known for its backwaters but they are spectacular and constantly changing. Silt builds up in the shadow of islands and on corners eventually becoming land. These people looked like they were trying to cross on such a bank but we were told that they were catching clams.



























A kingfisher just before it caught a big fish, fruit bats in a tree and some old bird drinking a kingfisher.

Not sure which one of these had their hat on upside down? My favorite shot of the day a cormorant catching the sun or wind with other big birds in the background. I take such good pictures sometimes! Can’t wait until the next trip.

Merry Christmas!

Happy Birthday Dad for 23rd
Happy Birthday Vanessa for 24th
Happy Birthday Jesus for 25th
MERRY CHRISTMAS Everybody!

Especially to Jim, Shirley, Dan and Tom who is back to the UK for a few weeks from South Korea, hope you are still enjoying it Tom.
They say that Jesus wasn’t born on 25th December as we are told; it is more likely to have been March, April time. The reasoning being that when they look back in time, there was a super nova around that time that is said to have been the star of Bethlehem. I know exactly when it was; April 1st.
Very quick one today, as I know you all have presents to open. At least I hope you do. We have a new favorite restaurant called the Sharmen which is right across the road from where we are staying. We had been going in for a quick drink on our way out as we felt sorry for them as nobody ever seemed to be in there. Although I remember from last time it was always full of locals, but we had never eaten there before. We were having our usual drink the other night when Claire decided we should go back to ours early and watch our film channels with a bottle of Sula which was chilling in the fridge. We asked for a menu but Claire had already decided on tandori chicken to pick at and share. I noticed on the menu they had garlic chips and chili chips which sounded interesting as an accompaniment. We ended up with tandori chicken and chili chips; I also got chicken tika as I knew Claire would prefer it to tandori without all those bones and she had never had it without the massala before. I asked the waiter what chili chips were and he said, "You will never get this in any other restaurant sir, we invented it here". It’s difficult to do an accent when writing but when I read it back its there. What a delight, they were fantastic; watch out Gordon Ramsay.
We headed out to the restaurant at the end of the universe on Tuesday which is really called, "WOW 619". It is at the extreme north end of South Goa’s beach. As it was not quite lunch time (even for us) we left our heavy bag and towels at the bar and had a walk to the very end of the beach which we had not got to before. On the way back we noticed this Old Portuguese chapel set back in the jungle which made me think of Christmas.
One last picture of an old fishing boat and a video that I have been saving. I took this when were ate at the fish restaurant
in the Majorda Beach resort and they came to practice. It’s a shame I didn’t record the song after this as that’s the one that Claire found particularly funny. Have a good one everyone!

Odds n sods

A few unrelated pictures and a few words about Goa for those that haven’t followed our other blogs. Starting with a hammocks eye view at the Majorda Beach resort and me in that hammock a few seconds later.

Another one at the Majorda; the only hotel in Goa with an indoor pool.

Whilst relaxing at Gods Gift I spotted some ants going to work on a butterfly. At first, when it was still struggling, there were about 1000 ants but once dead it only took about 100 or so to carry it off to their nest. It was amazing to watch how such little creatures organized themselves to carry off such a relatively large insect. They dragged it about 20ft to get it back to their hole. At first, I couldn’t be bothered to go back to our room for the camera but I am pleased that I changed my mind in time to catch these shots just before it disappeared.

Here is one of Claire relaxing by the pool at Gods Gift trying to catch the last few rays in late afternoon.

Our lovely little puppies at Gods Gift. They have chained up the parents (so they can’t do any more damage) leaving the three puppies free to run around. They can’t resist Claire, nor she them and I know you shouldn’t have favorites.

Goa has lovely weather during our winter, only getting humid in May just before the monsoon comes and it rains until about October when the sun comes out again. Flight prices vary more than most destinations but we paid £350 each for 2 weeks over Christmas; if we could have come 1 week earlier we could have got it for £200. Before I found these my cheapest was about £650 so do persevere. It takes about eight and a half hours for a direct flight and considerably more for non direct; do try and get direct, unless you want to try and stop off at Dubai on the way.

Hotels and guest houses are everywhere and the cost also varies. There are the top hotels, like Taj Exotica, Majorda Beach Resort and Leela etc. You may be able to get a deal but food and drinks are usually high. We paid £18 for a gin and tonic and a glass of wine at the Taj. Some hotels give you all inclusive but it really is so cheap out here we don’t think its worth it. For a good lunch with beer at one of the many “beach shacks” along the coast, expect to pay about £5 for two. And many will include a sun bed, umbrella and table for the day keeping you supplied with drinks when you wish. In the evening, prices are similar but, like everywhere they vary in price and quality. Although the price of wine is high at the Majorda their food is reasonable; we paid about £5 for chateaubriand for 2 people.

Goa is split into 3 main parts, North, South and central. We like South Goa better than the others but probably more people prefer the North as more go there. The North is more commercial and “Roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and bisto gravy” is readily available. The South have always had fewer tourists, although Colva and Cavolosim are catching up fast. The south has one long beach with all the resorts along it; on a clear day, if you stand near the middle, say Colva you can see the end in both directions. We have walked the entire south Goa beach and have thoroughly enjoyed it. The north has cove type beaches making it almost essential to have a driver to get you out of where you are staying mostly. There are some stretches worth walking along in the Candolim area. Central Goa has the capital Panjim amongst other things; there are more traditional places of interest to see in that area but not where I would chose to stay, its better to visit if you wish.

Like everywhere, Goa is constantly changing, but it seems to me that Goa is changing faster than most. Last time we came you were constantly plagued by sellers along the beach, now they are banned. The smoking in public places rule has just started to be enforced this week. The roads are busy and people drive so much differently to back home and when you first get here it seems very dangerous. We have always hired a motor bike when we are here and find it much less dangerous than it looks as traffic goes so slowly generally. We usually pay about £2 a day for rental but you can get it for less. We used to barter furiously when here at first but now only a little. The locals always start with what they think is a high price for their first time but actually enjoy the game where you try and get them down while they try and hold the price high. The people here earn relatively so much less than us so when we buy stuff now we don’t reduce their price by much but still barter otherwise you will lose their respect and they don’t get the satisfaction.

The main danger on the roads probably comes from animals, especially at night. Goats, dogs, pigs and cows constantly walk the roads along with lots of people and bikes. As in India they drive on the left just like at home the cows usually walk on the right so as to see the oncoming cars and trucks. There is no law for this and I don’t think they have learned it, its just that the ones that naturally like to walk on the other side have long since died when motorized transport started. The “holy cow” can walk anywhere they chose, except in a posh hotel, they even go down to the beach. Some of the pigs can grow to quite a size and can be quite threatening sometimes. There are also water buffalo roaming the beaches and roads; these are huge beasts and can be quite dangerous. You regularly read of people being killed by them. The locals rear them here for strength, getting them to drag huge lumps of wood chained to their neck along the beaches to strengthen them up in training for a buffalo fight. These are quite hard to find as they are illegal, we only stumbled across one once and they don’t fight to death or even hurt each other. They interlock horns and push each other until one has had enough and runs like crazy in any direction it can; don’t get in its way! Huge amounts of energy are expended in these fights and the bulls quickly overheat so the owners or trainers are constantly pouring buckets of water over their back, which seems to instantly turn to steam. They even get behind their bull and give it a helping push. It is hard to watch as there are so many people in a circle around the bulls, like a children’s playground fight. They all bet their weeks wages on their favorite so its important that theirs wins.

Do try and get here as it’s a place you will not forget and don’t sit in your expensive hotel paying extortionate prices, get out and experience Goa buying your food, drinks and bits from the locals who really need the business. They are lovely people here; you will rarely find one that you don’t like. They can be a little irritating sometimes when trying to sell you something so just smile and say, “Maybe tomorrow”!